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April Flowers Baby Blanket-Part 3

Welcome to the last part of the April Flowers Baby Blanket crochet-a-long! This part will be about joining all your blocked squares and making the border to complete your beautiful blanket!


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This pattern and photographs are the property of K.A.M.E. Crochet by Krisztina Anna Matejcsok-Edomer and are for personal and non-commercial use. You may not alter or sell this pattern in any way. You may sell finished products, but please credit K.A.M.E. Crochet if you can. Thank you!


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Finished Size:                   76 cm x 112 cm / 30″ x 44″ AFTER BLOCKING

Stitches Used and Abbreviations:

MR = magic ring

CH = chain

SK = skip

ST/STS= stitch/ stitches

SLST = slip stitch

SC = single crochet

DC = double crochet

V ST= V stitch

Picot ST = picot stitch

*-* =repeat pattern between these symbols (This is only used for a full repeat, may contain smaller repeats)

{ } =indicates how many stitches go into the same stitch or used to repeat a small set of instructions between these brackets the number of times given

[ ] = used to repeat a medium length set of instructions between these brackets, the number of times given

[ ] = used to repeat a longer set of instructions between these brackets, the number of times given

Special Stitches:

V Stitch (V ST):

Double crochet in indicated stitch/space, chain 2, double crochet in same stitch/space.

Picot Stitch (Picot ST):

CH 3, SLST into the third CH from hook

Gauge:   4 half double crochet stitches and 3 rows = 1″ / 2.5 cm

Additional notes:

  • If a row/round starts with a Chain 1 or 2, it is not counted as a stitch, unless stated otherwise.
  • Slip stitches do not count as stitches.
  • CH 3 always counts as double crochet.
  • US terms used throughout
  • At the end of every round, there’s going to be a note with the stitch count, so you can keep track of your work easily and avoid any mistakes. It’s written in a different color; the first line in bold is always the total stitch count for the round (starting with the border,this excludes corner stitches). Below that, I included a stitch count per side (excluding corner stitches) and per corner too, in case you prefer it that way.
  • When working on the corners, always remember that there might be a hidden stitch hiding under the corner stitches which is the first stitch of the previous row
  • Notes are written in a different color in (brackets) to help you through the pattern.
  • You can start each round as I did in the pattern or you can use a standing stitch or chains, it’s totally up to you!

Joining the Squares:

Lay the squares in order as the picture shows below, 4 squares horizontally and 6 squares vertically:

Crochet them together vertically first, this way:

1. To start: With C1 (Saffron) make a slip knot (Pic 1)

2. Insert your hook into the CH 2 corner space of your first bottom square then pull through the loop (Pic 2)

3. Insert your hook into the CH 2 corner space of the top square from top to bottom (keep the yarn under the hook and squares (Pic 3)), yarn over and pull through  the loop (like a SLST) (Pic 4)

4. SLST from bottom to top into the next ST of the bottom square (Pic 5)

5. SLST from top to bottom into the next ST of top square (remember to keep the yarn under the hook and squares) (Pic 6)

6. Keep slip stitching this way (Pic 7), until you get to the corner spaces, SLST to the CH 2 SP of the bottom square first (Pic 8) and then SLST to the top CH 2 SP of the top square (Pic 9-10)

(Note: do not make the SLSTS too loose or too tight and make sure to SLST through ALL STS!)

7. Take your next bottom square, then SLST into the CH 2 corner SP from bottom to top (Pic 11). Now take your next top square and SLST into the CH 2 corner SP from top to bottom (Pic 12)

8. Keep joining until you joined 12 squares vertically (Pic 13)

(Note: make sure, do not twist the squares after the first vertical join, to prevent it from happening, you can join your squares together on the side with a stitch marker as shown)(Pic 14)

9. Join all squares vertically

Crochet them together horizontally this way:

10. After joining all 24 squares vertically, start joining them the same way as above horizontally. When you get to the first vertical join line make sure you work in the CH 2 spaces first (bottom and then top)(Pic 15-16), then skip the vertical joining line, SLST into the CH 2 SP of the next bottom square (Pic 17), then SLST to the next CH 2 SP of the square on top (Pic 18)

11. That’s how it should look after joining 4 corners (Pic19)

12. Join all squares horizontally, then fasten off and weave in all ends.

1.                                                                                                         

2.

3.                                                                                                         

4.

5.                                                                                                         

6.

7.                                                                                                         

8.

9.                                                                                                         

10.

11.                                                                                                       

12.

13.                                                                                                       

14.

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16.

17.                                                                                                       

18.

19.


The Border:

Round 1: Join C1 (Saffron) to the top right CH 2 corner SP (this way, you will work on your short side first), CH 1, {1 SC, CH 2, 2 SC} in CH 2 corner SP (Pic 1), [1 SC in next 26 STS,{1 SC in next CH 2 SP (Pic 2), 1 SC into the SLST join (Pic 3), 1 SC in next CH 2 SP (Pic 4), 1 SC in next 26 STS} 3 times, {2 SC, CH 2, 2 SC} in CH 2 corner SP, 1 SC in next 26 STS,{1 SC in next CH 2 SP, 1 SC into the SLST join, 1 SC in next CH 2 SP, 1 SC in next 26 STS} 5 times, {2 SC, CH 2, 2 SC} in CH 2 corner SP (corner)(Pic 5)] twice, omitting last corner, put 1 SC in first CH 2 corner SP, join with a SLST to first SC

Short side: 113 SC

Long side: 171 SC

Corner: 2 SC, CH 2, 2 SC

1.                                                                                                         

2.

3.                                                                                                         

4.

5.

Round 2: SLST to CH 2 corner SP, CH 1, [{2 SC, CH 2, 2 SC} in CH 2 corner SP (corner), 1 SC in each ST on side] 4 times, join with a SLST to first SC (Pic 1)

Fasten off.

Short side: 117 SC

Long side: 175 SC

Corner: 2 SC, CH 2, 2 SC

1.

Round 3: Join C6 (White) to the top right or the bottom left CH 2 corner SP with a standing DC (this way, you will work on your short side first)

{CH 3, V ST} in CH 2 corner SP (Pic 1), [SK 4 STS, V ST in next ST, {SK 3 STS, V ST in next ST (Pic2)} 28 times, SK 4 STS, {V ST, CH 3, V ST} in CH 2 corner SP (corner) (Pic 3), SK 3 STS, {V ST in next ST, SK 3 STS (Pic 4)} 44 times, {V ST, CH 3, V ST} in CH 2 corner SP (corner)] twice, omitting last corner, put 1 DC, CH 2 in first CH 2 corner SP, join with a SLST to first DC (Pic 5)

Short side: 29 V ST

Long side: 44 V ST

Corner: V ST, CH 3, V ST

1.                                                                                                         

2.

3.                                                                                                         

4.

5.

Round 4: SLST to CH 3 corner SP, {CH 5 (counts as DC+CH 3), V ST in CH 3 corner SP (Pic 1), [V ST in each CH 2 SP of V ST on side (Pic 2), {V ST, CH 3, V ST} in CH 3 corner SP (corner)] 4 times, omitting last corner, put 1 DC, CH 2 in first corner, join with a SLST to 2nd CH of CH 5

Short side: 31 V ST

Long side: 46 V ST

Corner: V ST, CH 3, V ST

1.                                                                                                         

2.

3.

Round 5: same as Round 4

Short side: 33 V ST

Long side: 48 V ST

Corner: V ST, CH 3, V ST

Round 6: same as Round 4

Fasten off.

Short side: 35 V ST

Long side: 50 V ST

Corner: V ST, CH 3, V ST

Round 7: Join C3 (Apple) to the top right or the bottom left CH 3 corner SP (Pic 1) (this way, you will work on your short side first)

CH 1, [{1 SC, CH 4, 1 SC} in CH 3 corner SP (corner) (Pic 2), CH 3, {1 SC in next CH 2 SP of V ST, CH 3 (Picture 3)} 37 times, {1 SC, CH 4, 1 SC} in CH 3 corner SP (corner) (Pic 4), CH 3, {1 SC in next CH 2 SP of V ST, CH 3} 52 times] twice, join with a SLST to first SC

Short side: 37 SC, 38 x CH 3 SP

Long side: 52 SC, 53 x CH 3 SP

Corner: 1 SC, CH 4, 1 SC

1.                                                                                                         

2.

3.                                                                                                         

4.

Round 8:

SLST to CH 4 corner SP, {CH 3 (counts as DC), 4 DC, Picot ST, 5 DC} in CH 4 corner SP (corner) (Pic 1), [1 SC in next CH 3 SP, [{3 DC, Picot ST, 3 DC} in next CH 3 SP (Pic 2), 1 SC in next CH 3 SP] 9 times, {3 DC, Picot ST, 3 DC} in next SC (Pic 3), 1 SC in next CH 3 SP (Pic 4), [{3 DC, Picot ST, 3 DC} in next CH 3 SP, 1 SC in next CH 3 SP] 9 times, {5 DC, Picot ST, 5 DC} in CH 4 corner SP (corner) (Pic 5), 1 SC in next CH 3 SP, [{3 DC, Picot ST, 3 DC} in next CH 3 SP, 1 SC in next CH 3 SP] 26 times, {5 DC, Picot ST, 5 DC} in CH 4 corner SP (corner)] twice, omitting last corner, join with a SLST to top of CH 3

Fasten off, weave in all ends, block the finished item.

Short side: 21 SC, 19 Picot Shells

Long side: 27 SC, 26 Picot Shells

Corner: 5 DC, Picot, 5 DC

1.                                                                                                          .

2

3.                                                                                                         

4.

5.


END OF PART 3.


Thank you for choosing this pattern for your project! When you make it, I’d like to see it! Remember to tag me – @k.a.m.e_crochet or use hashtag #kamecrochet on Instagram.

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Happy Crocheting!

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