This fun coffee cup cozy is a very quick and easy small project between big projects or perfect for stashbusting.
It is available in 1 size only, to fit a 12 oz. /340 ml travel coffee cup.
The pattern is using front post treble crochet stitches to create a nice, textured look.
I CREATED A PHOTO TUTORIAL FOR ROUNDS 4, 6 and 8, YOU CAN FIND IT HERE.
Difficulty: Intermediate
Size: To fit a 12 oz. /340 ml travel coffee cup
Gauge: 4 SC = 1”
Materials needed:
- 5 mm (H) size hook (Get great hooks HERE)
- approx. 20-25 grams (34-42.5 metres/37.2-46.5 yards) of Drops Loves You 8 100 % cotton or any other 100% cotton,aran/worsted weight yarn
- Yarn needle for weaving in ends
- Scissors
Stitches used and Abbreviations:
CH = chain
ST = stitch
SK= skip
SLST = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
HDC = half double crochet
DC = double crochet
FPTR = front post treble crochet
FPTR2tog = front post treble two together
*-* =repeat pattern between these symbols
Additional terms/ Special Stitches:
Stitching in the 3rd loop only of HDC:
Look at the top of the stitch and locate the sideways ”V”, bend the stitch to look at the back and you should see another ”V”. You will be working into the back loop of that ”V”. This creates a nice, braided look.
Front Post Treble Crochet:
Yarn over twice, insert your hook from the front around the post of given stitch, from right to left, yarn over and finish your treble crochet as usual.
Additional notes:
- Each round starts with a Chain 1 or 2. This is NOT counted as a stitch
- US terms used throughout
- If you need some help with the stitches, there’s a PHOTO TUTORIAL for round 4,6 and 8 in a separate PDF file
Instructions
To start: CH 32, SLST to first CH to form a ring (make sure you don’t twist it when join)
Round 1: CH 1, 1 HDC in same CH, 1 HDC in each CH to end, join with a SLST to first HDC
(32 HDC)
Round 2: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST 3rd loop only, 1 SC in each ST 3rd loop only, join with a SLST to first SC
(32 SC)
Round 3: CH 2, 1 DC in same ST, 1 DC in each ST to end, join with a SLST to first DC
(32 DC)
Round 4: CH 1, 1 FPTR around the 2nd SC of round 2, 1 SC in next 3 STS, 1 FPTR2tog, placing first FPTR around the same SC from round 2 with the first FPTR, count 3 STS forward in round 2 and place the 2nd FPTR of the FPTR2tog around the 4th SC from round 2. SK 1 ST, 1 SC in next 3 STS *1 FPTR2tog, placing first FPTR around the same SC from round 2 with the last leg of the previous FPTR2tog, count 3 STS forward in round 2 and place the 2nd FPTR of the FPTR2tog around the 4th SC, 1 SC in next 3 STS* repeat *to* to end and when you get to the last stitch FPTR around the last FPTR2tog leg you made and before you finish your FPTR (when there are 2 loops left on the hook) SLST to the first FPTR you made. (This will count as FPTR2tog)
(8 FPTR2tog, 24 SC)
(Hint: If you need help how to place your stitches, check the photo tutorial)
Round 5: CH 2, 1 DC in same ST, 1 DC in each ST to end, join with a SLST to first DC
(32 DC)
Round 6: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST, 1 SC in next ST, 1 FPTR2tog placing the first leg around the last FPTR and the first FPTR from round 4 and placing the second leg around the top of next FPTR2tog from round 4, *SK 1 ST, 1 SC in next 3 STS, 1 FPTR2tog around the top of FPTR2tog where you just put the second leg of FPTR2tog and the top of next FPTR2tog from round 4* repeat from *to* when you get to the end of this round, 1 SC in last ST, join with a SLST to first SC
(note: the final FPTR2tog will be worked around the top of last FPTR2tog from round 4 and the same ST you just made the first leg of FPTR2tog in this round)
(8 FPTR2tog, 24 SC)
Round 7: CH 2, 1 DC in same ST, 1 DC in each ST to end, join with a SLST to first DC
(32 DC)
Round 8: CH 1, 1 FPTR around the first FPTR2tog from round 6, 1 SC in next 3 STS, 1 FPTR2tog, placing first FPTR around the same FPTR2tog from round 6 with the first FPTR of this round, and place the 2nd FPTR of the FPTR2tog around the next FPTR2tog from round 6. SK 1 ST, 1 SC in next 3 STS *1 FPTR2tog, placing first FPTR around the same FPTR2tog from round 6 with the last leg of the previous FPTR2tog and place the 2nd FPTR of the FPTR2tog around the next FPTR2tog, SK 1 ST, 1 SC in next 3 STS* repeat *to* to end and when you get to the last stitch, 1 FPTR around the last FPTR2tog you just put a FPTR2tog into and before you finish your FPTR (when there are 2 loops left on the hook) SLST to the first FPTR you made. (This will count as FPTR2tog)
(8 FPTR2tog, 24 SC)
Round 9: CH 2, 1 DC in same ST, 1 DC in each ST to end, join with a SLST to first DC
(32 DC)
Round 10: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST, 1 SC in next ST, 1 FPTR2tog placing the first leg around the last FPTR and the first FPTR from round 8 and placing the second leg around the top of next FPTR2tog from round 8, *SK 1 ST, 1 SC in next 3 STS, 1 FPTR2tog around the top of FPTR2tog where you just put the second leg of FPTR2tog and the top of next FPTR2tog from round 8* repeat from *to* when you get to the end of this round, 1 SC in last ST, join with a SLST to first SC
(note: the final FPTR2tog will be worked around thetop of last FPTR2tog from round 8 and the same ST you just made the first leg of FPTR2tog in this round)
(8 FPTR2tog, 24 SC)
Round 11: CH 1, 1 HDC in same ST, 1 HDC in each ST to end, join with a SLST to first HDC
(32 HDC)
Round 12: CH 1, 1 SC in same ST 3rd loop only, 1 SC in each ST 3rd loop only, join with a SLST to first SC
(32 SC)
Fasten off, weave in all ends.
Thank you for choosing this pattern for your project! When you make it, I’d like to see it! Remember to tag me – @k.a.m.e_crochet or using hashtag #kamecrochet on Instagram
If you have any questions about the pattern, please contact me at kamecrochet@gmail.com or
Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/people/Mytia89
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/KAMECrochet
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/k.a.m.e_crochet
Happy Crocheting!
